The Meatball and Wine Bar has raised a classic of home cooking (and one of my favourite comfort foods) to a new level of culinary delight – the ‘artisan meatball’. By all accounts the punters are loving it, and the blogosphere and mainstream critics alike are abuzz.
Having triumphed at lunch and dinner, it now promises to ‘grab breakfast by the balls’. Does it live up its promise? Big flavours and big serves answer a resounding ‘yes’, and surprisingly, the eponymous meatball plays only a minor (but very tasty) role.
Stepping into the Meatball and Wine Bar is like entering a long, dimly lit cave – the narrow shopfront extends a long way back and lighting is deliberately low. In the distance the ‘Meat Dept’ is proclaimed in Broadway-style lights over a display cabinet – bright in the gloom but still only dimly lit. Your eyes take a moment to adapt, slowly discerning bare brickwork, a bar extending down one side, lots of wooden tables, bentwood chairs and bar stools. The tables for two are very compact, and coupled with the low lighting, they are ideal for a discrete assignation.
Bilby Blue and I have been invited to review the recently launched breakfast menu, and only knowing the Meatball and Wine Bar by reputation, we eagerly scan the menu for meatball options – and get all the way to the end before finding the Grilled Breakfast Balls, almost an afterthought in the Sides. Since this is an invitation we want to ensure we sample a good range of what is on offer, so we ask Rhys, the manager, bartender and barista, for his recommendations.